Friday, February 27, 2009

Back in 'Nam

In 2006 I came to Vietnam to teach English. It was the most wonderful 5 weeks. I made so many friends, tried tons of new and exciting foods, visited beautiful places, and seriously expanded my world-view.

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(Photo from my last tour in 'Nam)

Now, I'm back!

It was a long bus ride from Phnom Pehn and a little unpleasant for Jeremy (he had to suffer through me taking motion sickness meds--I never react well) but we made it, and without any problems.

So, here we are in HCMC (Ho Chi Mihn City--formerly known as Saigon) and enjoying the south. When I came to Vietname before, I only spent time in Hanoi, so it's a real pleasure to see another side of the country.

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We did a walking tour of the city today and cruised through a market with everything from flowers to meat.

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Even though the south is significantly more developed and relaxed than the north, all the things I love about Vietnam still exist here.

This afternoon we were walking down a street where men were drinking beer on the sidewalk, motor bikes dodged in and out between people, a flute player sauntered among the tourists, children helped cook family meals on the street, the air was filled with morning glory and fish sauce, and the everyone was 100% alive. I love Vietnam. Even the touts are friendly and usually just a simple "no thanks" is enough to make them smile and walk away. It's good to be home.

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We also went to the Reunification Palace or former Presidential Palace of the Republic of Vietnam (South Vietnam--before the war). The basement was basically a maze of tunnels and rooms that strectched well beyond the palace grounds and into the surrounding neighborhoods. It was here that the US forces and the South Vietnamese government ran the war. Other than that, the building was basically a hideous 70's monstocity. But a good excursion none-the-less.

Later, we went to the War Remnants Museum (formerly known as The Cinese and American War Crimes Museum) but I didn't get through much--Jeremy finished without me. After a few rooms full of anti-US propaganda, a prison re-creation and reading a few messages in the After Thoughts book, I wasn't too interested in finishing. War is ugly and all people suffered--not just the Vietnamese. It's hard for me to see these things (often taken out of perportion) and read what people wrote (often things like "Yakee bastards...") and not feel angry and upset over the injustice of it all. First, this museum is far from un-biased. It only talked about the people who wanted a united Vietnam--there were lots who didn't. It only talked about the bad things that happened to the Vietnamese--there was a lot of bad stuff done to Americans too. I'm not saying that I agree with the war or trying to diminish what the Vietnamese went through--it really was hell--but it makes me sad when people leave this museum thinking that Americans are beastly people because of the one side it presents. My country surely isn't the most righteous of them all, but no one is.

I remember once hearing from a Vietnam vet about a time when he was in combat and was nailed to a tree by a Viet Cong fighter by putting two knives through his shoulders, pinning him there for hours until he was able to free himself. Read the story of John McCain and his torturous experience in the Hanoi Hilton (an infamous prison) and I think you'll start to wonder about all those photos of smiling Americans playing cards as POWs in Vietnam. They weren't exactly "friendly" to our soldiers either. But you won't hear this story at this museum. Instead, you'll just hear about Vietnam's losses--and they truly are great. But like I said, war is ugly. This place just left an ugly taste in my mouth. I love Vietnam and I love the Vietnamese people, but I can't say I always love their government and it's "selective" way of "educating" it's people.

Whatever.

Tomorrow we will visit a temple and hit the road--I mean, the tracks! We're taking a 37 hour train ride from HCMC to Hanoi where I hope to have a happy reunion with my beloved students and introduce Jeremy to the one and only Ho Chi Mihn (or his embalmed body, that is).

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