You know it's time to go home when:
--You've watched all the movies on your iPod so many times that you know them all by heart.
--You fantasize about boring things like microwave popcorn, couches, commuting, curling irons...
--You fall asleep at 7 PM and sleep until 8 AM the next morning. (Play hard, sleep hard.)
--You seriously consider taking a 39 hour bus ride to save $10.
--Your backpack looks like a baby's burp rag.
--Every piece of clothing you own has a hole (or many) in it.
--You've gone to dinner at a stranger's house.
--You've had something stolen.
--You actually prefer cold showers.
--You backpack contents are as follows: 2/8 clothes, 2/8 toiletries, 1/2 books.
--You think that burger you just ate was camel, not beef.
--You can drink 12+ liters of water a day but only use the bathroom twice.
--You like licking the salt off your face.
Friday, February 27, 2009
Back in 'Nam
In 2006 I came to Vietnam to teach English. It was the most wonderful 5 weeks. I made so many friends, tried tons of new and exciting foods, visited beautiful places, and seriously expanded my world-view.
Now, I'm back!
It was a long bus ride from Phnom Pehn and a little unpleasant for Jeremy (he had to suffer through me taking motion sickness meds--I never react well) but we made it, and without any problems.
So, here we are in HCMC (Ho Chi Mihn City--formerly known as Saigon) and enjoying the south. When I came to Vietname before, I only spent time in Hanoi, so it's a real pleasure to see another side of the country.
So, here we are in HCMC (Ho Chi Mihn City--formerly known as Saigon) and enjoying the south. When I came to Vietname before, I only spent time in Hanoi, so it's a real pleasure to see another side of the country.

We did a walking tour of the city today and cruised through a market with everything from flowers to meat.




Even though the south is significantly more developed and relaxed than the north, all the things I love about Vietnam still exist here.
This afternoon we were walking down a street where men were drinking beer on the sidewalk, motor bikes dodged in and out between people, a flute player sauntered among the tourists, children helped cook family meals on the street, the air was filled with morning glory and fish sauce, and the everyone was 100% alive. I love Vietnam. Even the touts are friendly and usually just a simple "no thanks" is enough to make them smile and walk away. It's good to be home.

We also went to the Reunification Palace or former Presidential Palace of the Republic of Vietnam (South Vietnam--before the war). The basement was basically a maze of tunnels and rooms that strectched well beyond the palace grounds and into the surrounding neighborhoods. It was here that the US forces and the South Vietnamese government ran the war. Other than that, the building was basically a hideous 70's monstocity. But a good excursion none-the-less.
Later, we went to the War Remnants Museum (formerly known as The Cinese and American War Crimes Museum) but I didn't get through much--Jeremy finished without me. After a few rooms full of anti-US propaganda, a prison re-creation and reading a few messages in the After Thoughts book, I wasn't too interested in finishing. War is ugly and all people suffered--not just the Vietnamese. It's hard for me to see these things (often taken out of perportion) and read what people wrote (often things like "Yakee bastards...") and not feel angry and upset over the injustice of it all. First, this museum is far from un-biased. It only talked about the people who wanted a united Vietnam--there were lots who didn't. It only talked about the bad things that happened to the Vietnamese--there was a lot of bad stuff done to Americans too. I'm not saying that I agree with the war or trying to diminish what the Vietnamese went through--it really was hell--but it makes me sad when people leave this museum thinking that Americans are beastly people because of the one side it presents. My country surely isn't the most righteous of them all, but no one is.
I remember once hearing from a Vietnam vet about a time when he was in combat and was nailed to a tree by a Viet Cong fighter by putting two knives through his shoulders, pinning him there for hours until he was able to free himself. Read the story of John McCain and his torturous experience in the Hanoi Hilton (an infamous prison) and I think you'll start to wonder about all those photos of smiling Americans playing cards as POWs in Vietnam. They weren't exactly "friendly" to our soldiers either. But you won't hear this story at this museum. Instead, you'll just hear about Vietnam's losses--and they truly are great. But like I said, war is ugly. This place just left an ugly taste in my mouth. I love Vietnam and I love the Vietnamese people, but I can't say I always love their government and it's "selective" way of "educating" it's people.
Whatever.
Tomorrow we will visit a temple and hit the road--I mean, the tracks! We're taking a 37 hour train ride from HCMC to Hanoi where I hope to have a happy reunion with my beloved students and introduce Jeremy to the one and only Ho Chi Mihn (or his embalmed body, that is).
I remember once hearing from a Vietnam vet about a time when he was in combat and was nailed to a tree by a Viet Cong fighter by putting two knives through his shoulders, pinning him there for hours until he was able to free himself. Read the story of John McCain and his torturous experience in the Hanoi Hilton (an infamous prison) and I think you'll start to wonder about all those photos of smiling Americans playing cards as POWs in Vietnam. They weren't exactly "friendly" to our soldiers either. But you won't hear this story at this museum. Instead, you'll just hear about Vietnam's losses--and they truly are great. But like I said, war is ugly. This place just left an ugly taste in my mouth. I love Vietnam and I love the Vietnamese people, but I can't say I always love their government and it's "selective" way of "educating" it's people.
Whatever.
Tomorrow we will visit a temple and hit the road--I mean, the tracks! We're taking a 37 hour train ride from HCMC to Hanoi where I hope to have a happy reunion with my beloved students and introduce Jeremy to the one and only Ho Chi Mihn (or his embalmed body, that is).
Behind the Wheel in Cambodia
It's never too early to learn...
See, you can still own a motorbike and transport large goods.
Abandoned?
One day, while heading down the highway, we got stuck behind a truck that was literally piled a good 12 feet high with everything from mattresses to bicycles, and with every slight touch of the wheel, the whole Jenga tower swayed. I seriously thought we were going to see that little pickup flip. Not only was it too high, but one side of the truck was obviously heavier because the tires looked a little lower on air. Scary.
One day, while heading down the highway, we got stuck behind a truck that was literally piled a good 12 feet high with everything from mattresses to bicycles, and with every slight touch of the wheel, the whole Jenga tower swayed. I seriously thought we were going to see that little pickup flip. Not only was it too high, but one side of the truck was obviously heavier because the tires looked a little lower on air. Scary.
Thursday, February 26, 2009
All are Victims

After visiting Siam Reap, Jeremy and I went to Phnom Pehn. Many people do not know about the genocide that took place in Cambodia. It's the genocide that the world forgot. Though the genocide itself lasted 3 years (75-78), their tormentors--the Khmer Rouge--prevented their voices from being heard long after they were kicked out of government. They represented the people of Cambodia at the UN well into 90's and prevented all pleas for justice by the Cambodian people of being heard.
When the UN finally opened their ears to listen, this is what was said.

Nearly 3 million people--one third of the population of Cambodia--we murdered by Pol Pot and his regime.

The country's capital--Phnom Pehn--was emptied overnnight from a million plus to less than 40,000 (mostly high ranking party officials). Everyone was told to leave and go to the country where they were forced to abandon their education, their homes, their jobs and be people of the land. Pol Pot wanted to lead the world's most successful agricultural communist state and decided the best way to do this was empty the cities.

But first, he needed to rid the country of his competition. He chained, tortured and murdered all who were educated. The country was soon devoid of all teachers, doctors, economists, and engineers. The educated were the enemy. Western medicine was deemed inferior and adequate health care was inaccessible.

Schools like this one (photographed throughout this blog post) called S-21, were turned into bastions of hell. This one was later renamed Tuol Sleng were thousands of people were killed by means only the most heinous of people could imagine--electric shock through ears, nails to the head, hoes to the face, starvation; bullets were too "valuable" to waste. The Khmer Rouge's motto was: "To keep you is no benefit. To destroy you is no loss." Of the thousands to enter here, only 12 people are known to have survived S-21.

In 1998, Pol Pot died under house arrest though the causes are unknown. Was he poisoned? Was it suicide? The only thing known is that the man most responsible for the nightmare will never be put before court to face his victims.

Many who can remember are old. Most who survived have since died. The country is young--over 1/3 under the age of 20--but the wounds are still fresh.
In 1997 a task force was established by the government to bring the criminals responsible for these deaths to justice. The Extraorinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia was created in coalition with the UN and is now holding trials against several high ranking officials among the Khmer Rouge.
Jeremy and I had the opportunity to visit the Chambers and watched an appeal hearing for bail or house arrest in the case against Ieng Thirith: the Minister of Social Affairs and Action and Head of Democratic Kampuchea's Red Cross Society. Sitting in the chambers and watching her take the stand was conflicting in the most confusing of ways. She is old. She is decripid. She is pitiable. She is a murderer. She is respectful but she is also deceptive and hideous. When the judges asked her if she had anything to comment on before they made their decision, she said, "If you determine me guilty of murder, I will curse you to the seven layers of hell." Though the audience laughed, we all quickly returned to our sombre silence: this is a woman who helped send MILLIONS to their untimely deaths.
There is nothing funny about it.
It may not be the Hague, the ICC or Nazis, but history is being made in Cambodia--history of the same porportion, of the same gravity. Some of the world's most heinous and unrepentant murderers are facing their deeds and standing trial. Most of them are old and many will not live to see their verdicts. But I hope they will. And I hope that those who survived the horrors will live to see the lives of their loved ones honored with the gavel of justice firmly placed on the heads of their assailants.
In Cambodia, all are victims. Let's not forget them.
Labels:
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Heirs of the Angkor Kings
I'm pretty sure that modern Cambodians look a little different than their Angkor ancestors, but it's fun to think about anyway. :)
Two bridesmaids in a wedding photo shoot at Angkor Wat.
Drag Queen? Miss Universe? Kitsch-y photo model? No! The bride!
This kid is so cute. I love this photo.
WAT'cha lookin' at? Day 3
The third day in Siem Reap went a lot better. My knee was back to normal and we rented much better bikes for the long and bumpy road.
Remember the movie Tomb Raider with Angelina Jolie? We went to Ta Prohm where that movie was filmed and spent some time walking around the ruins (which really are ruined).
It was a long day of nearly 30 kms of biking in the hot sun. I got a little burnt but oh well. We managed to see everything we wanted to and still had some energy left in the evening to do a little internet. Seeing Angkor Wat is a dream come true. I hope all of you get a chance to see it too one day. :)
Remember the movie Tomb Raider with Angelina Jolie? We went to Ta Prohm where that movie was filmed and spent some time walking around the ruins (which really are ruined).
An alter in the shadows.
The tree that ate the temple.
I love the way nature has changed the color of the stones.
We also hit up Angkor Wat--the most famous temple of Cambodia and one-time back drop for the movie Mortal Combat.
We also hit up Angkor Wat--the most famous temple of Cambodia and one-time back drop for the movie Mortal Combat.
Jeremy pretending he is the Tomb Raider.
It's rare that I get a good photo of me! Thanks, J!
It was a long day of nearly 30 kms of biking in the hot sun. I got a little burnt but oh well. We managed to see everything we wanted to and still had some energy left in the evening to do a little internet. Seeing Angkor Wat is a dream come true. I hope all of you get a chance to see it too one day. :)
WAT'cha lookin' at? Day 2
Didn't do much today. The 40+ km bike ride nearly made my knee explode so we took it easy and up0loaded photos and made plans for the rest of the trip.
We're going to Vietnam!!
We're going to Vietnam!!
Labels:
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Friday, February 20, 2009
WAT'cha looking at? Day 1
A 'Wat' is a Buddhist temple in Southeast Asia. Cambodia has a lot of wats--in fact, the world's most famous wats thanks to movies like Tomb Raider and Mortal Combat--with a large concentration of them in Siam Reap.
Yesterday we set out to explore them. It took us all day to ride nearly 40kms on bikes and visit these reclusive wonders of the world.

This cute little girl kept trying to sell us key chains and post cards by showing us she could count in English. We weren't buying but Jeremy humored her and taught her how to count to 20 in Russian, saying, "There, now go find some Russian tourists. They'll buy."

Then, once inside the temple, her sister found us and tried to sell us the same stuff. She, however, conned him into a game of tic-tac-toe where the wager was (only mentioned after the game began and decided wholly by her) that if he lost he had to buy her postcards. lol. When he started to win, she wiped the graph out of the dirt and said, "No one wins. New game!" It was funny. We still didn't buy though. Instead, we gave her, her sister and her brother some oranges we packed but didn't want to eat. Then LOTS of little kids started showing up--including one 20-something adult!--asking us for oranges! I have no idea how word spread so fast! :)

The hungry little trio.

This tree had grown over the top of the jungle temple and had spread its roots all around the door. How cool is that?!

On our way back we had some bike trouble. Something was wrong with the back wheel and it was squeaking like crazy, so we enlisted the help of some Cambodian guys found along the road. It seems that they all are excellent bicycle repair men because within 10 minutes of tightening and loosening a few screws, the bike was quiet again. Such great help from such an amazingly hospitable people!! :)
Yesterday we set out to explore them. It took us all day to ride nearly 40kms on bikes and visit these reclusive wonders of the world.

This cute little girl kept trying to sell us key chains and post cards by showing us she could count in English. We weren't buying but Jeremy humored her and taught her how to count to 20 in Russian, saying, "There, now go find some Russian tourists. They'll buy."

Then, once inside the temple, her sister found us and tried to sell us the same stuff. She, however, conned him into a game of tic-tac-toe where the wager was (only mentioned after the game began and decided wholly by her) that if he lost he had to buy her postcards. lol. When he started to win, she wiped the graph out of the dirt and said, "No one wins. New game!" It was funny. We still didn't buy though. Instead, we gave her, her sister and her brother some oranges we packed but didn't want to eat. Then LOTS of little kids started showing up--including one 20-something adult!--asking us for oranges! I have no idea how word spread so fast! :)

The hungry little trio.

This tree had grown over the top of the jungle temple and had spread its roots all around the door. How cool is that?!

On our way back we had some bike trouble. Something was wrong with the back wheel and it was squeaking like crazy, so we enlisted the help of some Cambodian guys found along the road. It seems that they all are excellent bicycle repair men because within 10 minutes of tightening and loosening a few screws, the bike was quiet again. Such great help from such an amazingly hospitable people!! :)
Labels:
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art,
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cambodia,
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siem reap,
south east asia,
travel
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
Gilligan's Island
Labels:
asia,
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beach,
comedy,
love,
ocean,
paradise,
photography,
south east asia,
thailand,
travel
A little harder than your Skip-It....
Most of these fire dancers do it just for fun because they love playing with fire (no pun intended). The girl is an American who left the states and took her toys to Thailand where there pretty much aren't any rules regarding the art and she can play freely on the beach without fire barriers and extinguishers. Very interesting stuff. These photos were taken during dinner. :)








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