21st century nomad: Alexandria

We first arrived in Alexandria and had a great time wandering around there for a few days (even if it all started out wrong). When we arrived we walked out of the airport and jumped in a pretty plain looking taxi. Following local custom--which is to not negotiate a price before hand (as all taxis are un-metered) and instead just toss them a fair price as you exit--we handed our diver 15 Pounds and jumped out. But our large driver followed us. He didn't seem happy. We were pretty convinced that was a fair price as we had asked some locals at the airport but he kept insisting that it wasn't and followed us a long way down the road as we tried to walk off (well, Jeremy was walking and I was kinda helplessly following). But when the driver started threatening to call the police it seemed that maybe we were wrong and he was right. With a little coaxing I got J to stop.

By this time the driver was so upset that he couldn't speak English anymore and we were fortunate to find two young Egyptian guys walking down the street toward us (it was about 1 AM). With a little their help, we learned that he was a special "tourist taxi" driver and that 60 Pounds was indeed the going rate for his special car (though it really didn't look much more special than a 1960's blue station wagon). It was a little embarrassing. Jeremy, though, enraged by the man's dishonesty (we had no idea what we were walking in to) refused to pay him the full 60 Pounds and felt that 50 should be enough to make the problem go away. The driver wasn't satisfied and I was a little worried that this big guy was going to crush my boyfriend in front of my eyes, but he blubbered on for a bit and eventually took what he could get and let us go. What a way to meet and greet the locals!! So much for first impressions!!

After that, almost everything was fine. We did have another unpleasant run in with a sassy old waiter at an over priced restaurant. I ordered a croissant with cheese but he brught me some meat dish that I didn't order. When I complained to another waiter and took them my dish, he returned, threw the dish down in front of me and said, "No. This is your order," and stomped off. Ugh. It took a few more tries plus a talk with the manager to get the order right but he did eventually come back with the right dish and apologize. Weirdness.

We totally lucked out with what had to be the BEST hotel room ever (notice I said ROOM and not BATHROOM--eww) found at www.wikitravel.org (a good alternative/supplement to Lonely Planet and Hostel World). For about the equivalent of $8, we got a sea view right on the corniche (ocean drive) smack dab in the middle of the bay, so we could see Alexandria sprawling out to the left and right, curling forth towards the center entrance of the bay. Lovely. Really. With beautiful french doors opening to a nice little balcony.

While in Alex, we visited the Bibliotheca Alexandria (Alexandria Library)--once the largest library in the world and one of the world's seven wonders (though long ago destroyed). Today a modern library stands in it's place and is a great place to just hang out for a bit and read or surf the net. We had a interesting time searching their catalog for books we suspected might be banned. The Satanic Bible, for example, is only available to authorized researchers. Interesting. But perhaps the most interesting part of the museum is the crazy architecture!

The next day we visited Pompey's Pillar which is basically a bit pillar above two sphinxs and is all that remains of ancient Alexandria (as in the city that Alexander the Great built). While there, the old gate keeper let us in to some closed off areas below where we could see a reproductin of the bull that the ancient Romans used to pray to as well as some catacombs and the old temple library-second only to the main library of Alexandria.

Later that day we went to a very old catacomb complex where thousands of Roman and Egyptian were once buried. We weren't supposed to take photos in there but there were no gaurds around and it was only me and J, so he stood watch and I snapped a few. :)

On the way back we walked through a very charming Islamic district, witnessing impromptu soccer games, home made dough-making in the street, lovely afternoon sun, and the best animal market ever.