I sat and chatted with a guy from Poland last night and we both shared a lot of the same sentiments regarding India. He's been here a week as well but his best friend left him a couple nights ago--out of the blue!--to go meet up with his girlfriend. And so here we were, a couple of lonely travelers. But he had friends coming to meet him and they planned to go to Nepal together. I still have no one. It was nice having someone to talk to though.
We had some interesting conversation about the conflict in Georgia, the war in Iraq, the US missile defense system in Poland, and how depressing India is. Everywhere you go, people are begging for money. There are cows all over in the street eating plastic and gum wrappers from the ground. Kids are flinging dung at each other. Men are making kissing noises at you and rickshaw drivers follow you for blocks trying to convince you to ride with them. Every corner smells like urine. Dogs fight in dark alleys and follow you if you're carrying food. You have sweat beading off your face, rolling down shirt and dripping from your hair. Incredible India?
India is unlike any place on earth. I wouldn't call myself a seasoned Asia traveler, but I've seen enough to know that India stands apart on it's own. It's worse than China. Worse than Vietnam. Significantly worse than Thailand. The country is disorganized. The government corrupt. The people happy living in filth.
While in Delhi, I walked around Cognaut Place--the city center and former home of the British Raj. The beautiful colonial buildings are all crumbling. They are stained with years of graffiti and yellowed by daily dousings of piss. Men hide in dark corners and pollution fills the air like a black fog. Being there, you can't help but be sad. When the Brits left, they left so much behind for India, but you can see--everywhere you go--how unwilling, unmotivated and uncaring Indian's are about the up-keep of their country.
At historical sites, rebellious teenagers climb fences and deface historical buildings. People swing from columns and picnic in closed areas. Mosques, tombs, temples, and forts are abandoned within the ever sprawling urban jungle, left to face a very certain demise of encroaching business and homes.
No one cares.
I knew it would be dirty, crowded and poor, but I never thought it would be void of passion and pride. It's hard to imagine that in the most populated country in the world--over 1 billion people--that one could still feel so alone.
In the last few days, I've started to think that maybe Korea wasn't as bad as I thought it was... I really wasn't ready to start over again. But now I'm here and I don't know where to go next. I can't go back to Korea (I sent all my documents to Australia). Flights back to Seattle are really expensive. I could go to Australia but I'd be alone there too (the difference is in the standard of living). I feel like I'm trapped in India. I'm pretty sure that if I leave early, I'll never come back. That worries me a bit. I don't want to waste this experience. But right now I really need a friend. I kinda feel like that's more important. Anyway, I found a flight to Sydney on Friday for $600. I haven't bought it yet but it's looking pretty nice at the moment... If any of you know someone there that I might be able to hangout with for a bit until I get a job or a place to live (whichever comes first) please let me know. I'm not sure I'll go then but it's a thought... Let me know if you've got any ideas.
7 comments:
Have you had the opportunity to talk to Stacy's grandpa, Arnie? He spend time in India and may have an idea on places that would be nicer.
It may be worth it, to check out some trips with Intrepid (or another outfit) to see if any of their trips is something you could get into. You would at least have companionship.
Also, I'm fairly certain that are some chairitble organizations that you could spend time volunteering with. Sorry, I won't bother you anymore.
Isn't Jeremy in Austrlia?
I guess I kinda missed the point in my last comment - focused on India rather than on you being there alone. I'm sure being there with friends made it easier for me. . .
I second the advice above about checking out some kind of group tour. Not my preferred way to travel, but I think that is better than being on your own!
And I remember feeling overwhelmed by all the things you mentioned too, and finding Darjeerling (in the Himalayas) a magical escape - much cleaner, much cooler, much less crowded, and absolutely stunning nature. I think you could find the same in NE India, too.
And finally, as I said yesterday - after about two weeks my impressions really changed. I started to be able to notice the beauty among the ruins and the dirt and the poverty. It really is there, you just have to dig for it!
I recommend sticking it out, at least for another week or two - but all that said, I don't think you should feel bad at all if you decide to leave early. A (very tough) female friend of mine did the same this past winter. She'd like to go back to India sometime, but at the time just decided it was really too much and not at all enjoyable.
Heather
India teaches you what you need to know about yourself. From your blog it seems it is teaching you that you need to learn to like your own company. When you do you will see through the dirt of India and see the beauty.
My best suggestion is to find a smaller town. There is a nice one two hours train ride away called Orchha. Take Shatabdi to Jhansi then tempo 45 mins to Orchha.
Learn which locals can be trusted and you can have interesting conversations with them too. You don't need to feel alone.
hey kortney, not sure how long it is til you leave india but you need to get out of agra dn delhi, trust me you'll love jaipur or jodhur they're gorgeous :) at least see one of them before you go.
hugs and love cer xx
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